Trail du Pays Dogon, Mali, West Africa - Report by Bryon Heywood
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Trail du Pays Dogon, Mali 2005, Much More than Just a Race
I decided to attempt the Trail du Pays Dogon as my initiation into ‘self-sufficiency’ ultra racing because it offered various advantages over bigger better known races like the Marathon des Sables. The race takes place in the beautiful Dogon region of Mali, West Africa, and is less severe than some others, 100miles over 5 days through some very beautiful and varied terrain. It is a small (around 40 runners), friendly and very efficiently organised race, and it provides wonderful opportunities to meet the beautiful and dignified local people. The heat was around 40°C every day until the race finished, when it got cooler! Overnight stays were generally based in villages, and the self-sufficiency rules were flexibly interpreted, allowing occasional treats such as beer, chips (cooked in palm oil - marvellous), and once, a delicious tomato and onion salad with dressing.
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We arrived near our base of Togona Hotel, Bandiagara after a tiring 17 hour overnight journey from Liège to be welcomed by a group of dancers in traditional costume, drummers and local children who have been training since last year’s race. They ran the last kilometre to our hotel led by Suri their trainer, the top Malian runner. Suri was blowing a whistle and the kids were all chanting, smiling and waving as they ran. To add to the excitement and noise, an occasional musket was let off with a mighty explosion. The hotel provided very basic accommodation, and a pleasant garden with shaded dining areas and a well-used bar. We visited the very colourful village of Bandiagara, and underwent the formalities of race scrutiny: checking our essential equipment, verifying we had the required 7,000 Kcal of food (I passed this test easily, having 11,000 Kcal including a kilo of luxury muesli), and presentation of medical certificates.
Day 1 Bandiagara to Dourou, 29 km
Race Director, Alain Charlier, described the day’s route in French warning us not to start too quickly (it was already 37°C), and to drink frequently. The route was clearly marked in biodegradable blue paint. I translated his warnings into English for the benefit of the Dutch runners. Consequently I was very cautious at the start, and was the last of the 40 runners to leave. Within five minutes we were running along a wadi (dry river bed) in soft deep sand, and it was very draining. ‘I can’t do this!’ I thought. However, I found my rhythm, and made the first feeding station in about 20th position, the second in about 10th position, and then passed a few more who perhaps had started too quickly and were walking. I was delighted to finish in 4th position. The last 10km was very hard, and it was a moving experience to be met by group of children who ran the last kilometre with me chanting my position and holding my hand.
I had a lovely relaxing afternoon. My friend Didier and I were shown around Dourou by two friendly children, and taken to a cave overlooking a canyon where a snake (which protects the village from bad things) drinks from a pool. Luckily the snake wasn’t thirsty, but it was a delightful spot.
I had a very long almost sleepless night with frequent cramps in my legs, but at least it was under the African night sky which was fantastic.
Day 2 Dourou to Ireli Dune, 33km
The route was superb, with a rocky descent into the canyon we’d seen the previous day, and then a steep climb down a cliff through a fault line with spectacular views to the plains beyond. I made an attempt to keep up with the leaders, but they were too quick for me, and I also stopped to take some photos. We ran across the plain where there was a lot of sand, and again I found I was catching people particularly on the last stage. I caught Lambert who was 3rd the previous day, near the finish which was up a 400m sand dune. But he was quicker than I in walking up the dune, so I was 5th for the day, retaining my 4th overall position.
Looking back from the crest of the dune there were fantastic views rather like the Grand Canyon, and in the other direction, 100km of wilderness stretching to Burkina Faso.
I was having serious doubts about the wisdom of wearing shoes two sizes larger than normal as I’d been advised, since it seemed only to allow more sand to enter. I had blisters on some toes, but when I saw the grimaces of those being treated by the doctors, I decided all I needed was some self- applied plasters. These worked fine. I did get medical help in protecting my neck and back against rubbing rucksack straps which otherwise would have been agony.
Day 3 Ireli Dune to Yendouma, 24km
This was supposed to be an easy day, but none of them are! The start was along the top of the dune, so our shoes were immediately full of sand again, followed by a sandy descent into the plain. We followed sandy tracks along the plain for the rest of the day, and arrived at the charming ancient village nestling at the foot of the cliffs. I finished 6th and was beaten by my irrepressible buddy Franco, but since Lambert had a bad day, this put me into third position overall.
A couple of hours later, we were lying under the nylon sun shelter provided by the organisers with bodies, rucksacks and junk all over the place. Suddenly Alain shouted ‘Serpent! Serpent!!’ and people dived all over the place as this long thin snake slithered through the middle of us at incredible speed. It seemed to disappear into my rucksack, but it continued up a rock to be killed by locals who said that it was very dangerous.
A charming boy accompanied me around his village, and then offered me a present of a bracelet. I felt uneasy about accepting a gift from someone so poor, and told him that I couldn’t take it. But the hurt look on his face told me that I had been wrong to refuse his gift.
I’m sick to death of luxury muesli, and will never eat another mouthful!
Day 4 Yendouma to Logouroucombo, 42km
This was the big one, so we were up an hour before dawn to avoid some of the heat. I struggled with my sweet little torch to find things in my rucksack which by then was a complete mess, and rudely cursed things in franglais for getting themselves lost. After 5km we climbed a very rocky and steep path up part of the Youga Mountain, went through a village and then climbed down by another path. This rock climbing was good fun, and used different muscles from jogging. We then ran back across the plain along sandy tracks to Banani, where we climbed 400m up a cliff path, barely overtaking women who were carrying phenomenal loads on their heads. Then it was 24km straight on in relentless heat. This was my big effort and I managed to run most of it gaining time on my near rivals, except a Malian who mysteriously arrived 30minutes before me. Not to worry, who needs rules anyway?
I staggered over to the toilet block to have a wash down with a bucket of water. There were plenty of buckets but no water. However I was saved by a polite gentle man called Ankoundia, who fetched me a bucket of water. After washing I changed my clothes, then returned 10minutes later to wash my dirty kit in the remains of the water (which isn’t to be wasted). My bucket had disappeared but Ankoundia came to my rescue again, and led me to his house and sat down opposite me whilst we both washed my kit. He asked if I was joining the village feast that evening, and I explained that as I was vegetarian, I’d probably give it a miss. He was astonished that anyone could survive without meat, but then he offered to prepare me a salad of tomatoes and onions. This was a superb treat for me, as the standard meals of cous-cous or pasta were becoming rather unappealing. I gave him a bottle of water to wash the salad with (and a little money), and received the most delicious dish I have eaten in a long while. Ankoundia continued with this fantastic hospitality throughout my stay, and somehow got himself to Tagona Hotel (30km away) the next day to say goodbye. I was very touched by his kindness.
Day 5, Logouroucombo to Ourou Gondo, 29km
Race leader Bernard Gordon had an unassailable lead, so he started at a gentle pace which allowed me to run with him for the first time, if only for five km. The route followed some twisty footpaths with plenty of rocks strewn around, so it required concentration not to trip up. I ran with my buddy, Franco which helped us both. We made good progress for 15 km, but then the heat and tiredness started taking their toll, and I walked a bit during the last 20minutes. Eventually we were met by wonderfully exuberant crowd of children who ran with us to the finish where we were overwhelmed by floods of joy, relief, pride and humility.
The next day, Sunday, was our only day off, and we went to the major town of Mopti to sight-see, buy some trinkets at the market, and lunch at a good restaurant overlooking the Niger. Whilst sight- seeing, we were waiting for someone who had given us the slip and was drinking a cool glass in a café, when a man in his late 60s wearing heavy Dogon costume and hat came dancing down the street, singing and playing a traditional Malian drum in complex rythms and varying pitch. Curiously, he was wearing expensive-looking glasses. I don’t know why, but I said ‘Hola!’ to him as if he were Spanish. He replied a long greeting in Spanish beyond my comprehension, so I switched to French, and we chatted. He asked where I came from, and when I told him England, he spoke in good English. I asked why he spoke so many languages, and he explained that he’d worked for 14 years all over Europe. With that, he wished me well, resumed his drumming and danced on down the street happy completely. I felt as though I’d met a wizard or spiritual being, and wished that I’d taken his picture, but I had no chance of catching him up.
A very important aspect of the race is the humanitarian aide provided to local villages. The organisers assisted by Assoulu, the chief local guide, visit villages on the course of the Trail and ask the elders what are the particular needs of the village. Assoulu prepares detailed costed proposals for the requested projects in a very efficient and business-like manner. The Organisation then considers the proposals and decides which to support. Meanwhile back in Belgium, various fund-raising events are held throughout the year. This year ˆ14,000 was donated to six villages to support educational, nutritional, and womens’s livelihood projects. This will make a significant impact on the quality of life in these villages. Assoulu visits the villages later in the year and takes photographic evidence of the achievement of the project. Every runner was presented with a bag of dried onion flakes as thanks for the fruit and vegetable preserving equipment provided the previous year.
The Trail du Pays Dogon has left me filled with admiration for the wonderful people of Mali.
Bryon Heywood
